Sant Antoni, observed on January 17th, celebrating the Saint’s resistance to the Devil’s temptations, is definitely on that list of extraordinary Spanish Fiestas.
A lively, diverse and exhilarating affair, there is nothing like it for beating those post-Christmas blues. The Three Kings have barely left, yet dry January is officially out the window folks, because Sant Antoni is coming to town and you can’t help but go with the flow.
The programme of events is long and varied, lasting a good week, and whilst various towns throughout the island celebrate it, the enthusiasm peaks in Pollensa, and particularly in Sa Pobla.
The main events which shouldn’t be missed, in chronological order, are:
The Correfoc: Taking place a few days prior, this year, on Saturday 13th, the Correfoc (Fire Run) is an exhilarating experience. It features participants dressed as devils, wielding firework-lit pitchforks. They run through the streets and/or main square, creating a mesmerizing display of light, heat and smoke. Spectators unfamiliar with this event are advised to exercise caution.
Main events on the evening of January 16th:
The Bonfire Competition: On the eve of Sant Antoni, all participating towns come alive with the magical glow of small bonfires. If you were wondering what all the mounds of earth were for, that have suddenly appeared in the streets around town, usually next to a bar, now you know.
In Pollensa, the bonfires are decorated with weird and elaborate displays in preparation for the best bonfire contest, which the town takes very seriously. Not long after, the aroma of barbecue fills the air as recent “matanza” offerings, such as butifarró and sobrassada, sizzle on the grill. Yes, they are not only perfect for warming your hands on a cold January night but double up as pretty much the only “restaurants” open in town. These mouthwatering local sausages are often sold at the bar on a “grill your own” basis. They are best enjoyed with a hunk of pan mallorquín and a few beers followed by a few shots of “mezclat”, a potent drink made from a blend of aniseed liquor and the dark, sugary Mallorcan liquor, Palo (if you have the stomach for it).
What is a Ximbomba? An interesting instrument to play, but straightforward once you get the hang of it. The Ximbomba is THE Sant Antoni sound. Played by the young and their grandmothers late into the night, around the bonfire and in secluded corners of backstreet bars, it is an artisan skin drum with a protruding bamboo stick. Simply wet your hand and, well, with a good grip, slide it up and down the stick. The rhythm is important, and there is only one tune to play that accompanies the hundreds of Mallorquin folk songs telling tales, limerick style and often rude, of how Sant Antoni got one up on that Demoni. You will be surprised at how quickly you pick it up.
The Musical Fireworks Display: (Sa Pobla) Don’t be misled; this is a dark affair but absolutely spectacular. Taking place at the main square in Sa Pobla, the music is loud, the lighting is red, and the Devil himself would be impressed by this audio-visual display of lights, music and fireworks, which is unmatched anywhere on the island. Be warned, the crowds are large, and parking is complicated, so if you plan to come to Sa Pobla, you must arrive early and make a night of it.
Main events on January 17th:
The Animal Blessings: On the morning of Sant Antoni, head to Pollensa church (or Alcudia or Sa Pobla) to see an unusual lineup waiting for Mass. Watch as beloved pet owners stand in line with dogs and cats (and chickens and donkeys) waiting to receive the priest’s blessings. This heartwarming tradition pays homage to Sant Antoni, also the Patron Saint of animals.
La Pujada del Pi: The climbing of the Pine is a Pollensin tradition and only takes place here, with a slightly smaller affair in the Port. At mid-morning, Pollensins head on foot to Ternelles, where a 20-odd-metre felled pine tree, stripped of all its branches and bark, awaits. Combining strength, teamwork, and copious shots of Mesclat, the tree is hand-dragged back to the Plaza Vella. Once there, it is seriously greased and hoisted up. The village’s bravest individuals are challenged to participate in “La Pujada del Pi”. Whoever makes it to the top first claims the coveted prize, which, until 2018, was a live chicken. In Puerto Pollensa, a similar affair occurs, journeying to Formentor to collect the pine tree.
Check out the town hall programmes below (in Mallorquin only, but the Google translate versions are always interesting….)
Remember the rules: 1) Respect the Mallorquins and their traditions 2) Drink Mesclat 3) Sant Antoni is the good guy. We are on his side.
Disclaimer: Drinking Mesclat in excess may cause you to believe you are Sant Antoni, however your actions may reflect those of the Demoni… Happy Fiestas and drink with caution 😉
POLLENSA LIFESTYLE 